Vivienne Westwood, a fashion icon and activist, is the subject of a captivating new exhibition at The Bowes Museum, County Durham. This retrospective, titled 'Vivienne Westwood: Rebel - Visionary - Storyteller', delves into her extraordinary career and the unique style that has left an indelible mark on fashion history.
The Exhibition's Focus
Curator Rachel Whitworth explains that the exhibition is a celebration of Westwood's formative years, particularly her collaboration with partner Malcolm McLaren. The subtitle, 'Rebel - Storyteller - Visionary', encapsulates Westwood's journey, from rebelling against mainstream fashion to creating immersive 'worlds' within her designs, and ultimately, her lasting influence as a visionary.
Westwood's Personal Connection
The Bowes Museum was chosen for this exhibition due to its connection to Westwood. She had previously opened a lace exhibition there and lent some of her pieces. The museum's collection, with its diverse range of historic fashion, ceramics, and artwork, mirrors the eclectic inspirations that fueled Westwood's creative process.
Key Pieces and Their Stories
The Crinoline: Introduced in the Mini-Crini collection, Westwood's crinoline-inspired pieces are a testament to her ability to blend historic fashion with practicality. By using flexible plastic boning, she created light, wearable garments that retained their shape.
The Corset: Westwood's 'Stature of Liberty' corset, a signature piece from the Harris Tweed collection, transformed an undergarment into an outer garment. She modernized the historic template by replacing boning with flexible plastic strips and adding elasticated fabric and a zip.
The Crown: The Westwood crown, introduced in the Harris Tweed collection, added a sense of royalty to her designs. Its iconic status was solidified when model Sara Stockbridge wore it on the cover of i-D magazine. The crown, designed by milliner Stephen Jones, combined humor and tradition with its colorful tweed and origami-like 'jewels'.
Tartan: Westwood's use of tartan, originally for bondage trousers during the punk movement, evolved throughout her career. For the Anglomania collection, she collaborated with Lochcarron of Scotland to create tartans dedicated to family members, playing on the idea of clan tartans.
Works of Art: Westwood drew inspiration from various art forms, as seen in the Voyage to Cythera collection, inspired by Jean-Antoine Watteau's painting. Following her marriage, she and her husband reimagined the works of artists like Francois Boucher and Peter Paul Rubens, creating ensembles that resembled wearable canvases.
Tailoring: Beyond her punk roots, Westwood is renowned for her tailoring, particularly for women. Her tailored jackets, like the 'Bettina' jacket, featured complex structures and bold new forms, a departure from traditional designs.
Conclusion:
This exhibition offers a unique insight into Westwood's creative process and her ability to transcend time and trends. From her iconic crinoline and corset designs to her playful use of tartan and art-inspired ensembles, Westwood's work continues to captivate and inspire. As Whitworth notes, the increased interest in Westwood since her death makes this retrospective a timely and essential exploration of her legacy.
